Saturday, April 25, 2009

Leading 5.9

I just spent two days climbing at Eldo with Patrik Larsson. Patrik has been my number 1 climbing partner for 3 years now -- a very precise Swedish dude who knows Eldo, knows climbing and knows my ability better than I do.

Pony Express First Pitch 5.9, Eldo, is the crack on the left
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I led 6 pitches of 5.9 (my edge) with an excellent head and questionable style. I got 4 of the pitches clean. Two were one move wonders, but I was proud that I got the first pitch of Pony Express clean because it is quite sustained. The first pitch (to the eye bolt) of Green Spur beat me up a bit with it's off width down low (I took a fall), and finger crack layback up high. I had to aid through the upper section, but that was good practice to pull out those tricks in a pinch. The only thing that got broke were my big Walmart sunglasses.

(click image to enlarge)
I will climb more 5.9 on Wednesday and Thursday of this week at Eldo. I feel confident heading to Yosemite with some 5.9 under my belt and hope to return a solid 5.9 leader.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Yosemite Dreams

Less than two weeks until my month in Yosemite Valley. As I lay my head to the pillow at night a drama; visions of granite, adventure and heroics play in my brain. I can feel the great rock on my fingers and in my body as I teeter and dance above the valley floor. I cringe with delight at off-width chasms, dark chimneys and great roofs as I focus to move another step closer. Images of the legends, those crazed in siege, those valley christians, play rich history and help me to understand my purpose in their footsteps.

Why do I choose cold rock over warm hearts? What is the nature of my fearful craving? What is this reward, this sense of strength, of triumph, of peace, of growth?

Perhaps we will find out more together over these next months. The greatest adventure of my life is beginning now.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Heaps Canyon

(click image to enlarge)

(click image to enlarge)