Leading 5.9

I just spent two days climbing at Eldo with Patrik Larsson. Patrik has been my number 1 climbing partner for 3 years now -- a very precise Swedish dude who knows Eldo, knows climbing and knows my ability better than I do.

Pony Express First Pitch 5.9, Eldo, is the crack on the left
(click image to enlarge)
I led 6 pitches of 5.9 (my edge) with an excellent head and questionable style. I got 4 of the pitches clean. Two were one move wonders, but I was proud that I got the first pitch of Pony Express clean because it is quite sustained. The first pitch (to the eye bolt) of Green Spur beat me up a bit with it's off width down low (I took a fall), and finger crack layback up high. I had to aid through the upper section, but that was good practice to pull out those tricks in a pinch. The only thing that got broke were my big Walmart sunglasses.

(click image to enlarge)
I will climb more 5.9 on Wednesday and Thursday of this week at Eldo. I feel confident heading to Yosemite with some 5.9 under my belt and hope to return a solid 5.9 leader.

Shelf Road

Rocco and I headed down to Shelf Road outside Canon City, Colorado, a few weeks ago, for a two day sport climbing, grunt fest on those vertical limestone cliffs, with rope gun Boulder Rudy. Jonesin' for caffeine we stopped into the Coyote Coffee Company, on Hwy 115, where I ate the best chunk of homemade apple pie ever, with my bare hands dirt-bag style. Rudy got none and I had to apologize.
That is no way to treat a valued high-level partner like Rudy McIntire, whom I admire for his bold endeavors and feats of athleticism on ice and rock. You need to feed them well so they can gun up those climbs all day long -- because shelf road is a little above my ability. I think Rudy brought a couple of almonds, a few flakes of green tea and some scraps of cous-cous to eat, so I fed him peanut butter, meat sandwiches and oatmeal (see pic), so he could keep leading those heinous 5.10s and 5.11s.
You also need to let your valued high-level partners do all the leading. Why bore them and risk losing them by making them follow your 5.9 routes, when you can bloody yourself on 5.11 and keep them around to gun you up some more wicked climbs in the future. Thanks Rudy!!
Remember kiddies don't be leading, be feeding.